Manokwari, West Papua
A Leap into Timeless Authenticity
Thursday, June 19, 2025|
West Papua? You mean Papua New Guinea! Noop! I mean West Papua! This was the common reaction I encountered, often followed by worried expressions from friends when I mentioned my travels to West Papua. It's a common misconception, and it was for me at first, so let me clarify: while Papua New Guinea is indeed an island nation about a five-hour flight from Australia, West Papua is its own distinct entity, part of Indonesia.
Yes, it's a significant journey from London, but when an opportunity like this arises, I seize it. This adventure took me from London to Bangkok, then to Jakarta, and finally to Manokwari, one of my captivating destinations in West Papua.
Image: Market in Manokwari
A Journey Beyond Expectations
There are those rare moments in life that etch themselves into your memory, experiences that transcend the ordinary and leave an indelible mark. My journey to West Papua, Indonesia, was undoubtedly one of those moments. After a four-hour flight from Jakarta, I landed at Rendani Airport in Manokwari, the capital of this remote and captivating region at the western edge of New Guinea. I was privileged to witness a place where time seemed to stand still, a land largely untouched by the relentless march of modernity.
Stepping into Manokwari, I was immediately struck by its resemblance to the laid-back charm of the Caribbean. The warmth and genuine welcome of the Papuan people were palpable. There was a refreshing sense of authenticity; they were genuinely curious about me, a traveller who looked similar, yet distinctly different. My skin tone and short hairstyle seemed to fascinate them, and I was often asked to pose for photographs. This was curiosity, a testament to their open and welcoming spirit.
A Unique Perspective
A unique highlight of my trip was the opportunity to fly with my son, a commercial pilot who flies in the mountains of West Papua. Our first flight took us to Anggi, a mere 30-minute hop over a breathtaking landscape of impenetrable jungle, honey-coloured rivers, and jagged, awe-inspiring mountains. The precarious landing strip hinted at the isolation of the Anggi districts, where small planes are a lifeline for the few inhabitants.
The journey continued to Merdey, a flight, revealing a panorama of cascading waterfalls, dense jungle, and majestic mountains. Upon landing, I was informed that I would be staying behind while the plane continued its route, to be picked up on the return journey. While a flicker of apprehension arose, I was also filled with excitement.
The reality of being left in Merdey, a place where English was virtually non-existent (with over 200 distinct languages spoken in West Papua), was initially daunting. However, I was determined to embrace the opportunity. I quickly discovered the power of a smile, a respectful attitude, and genuine curiosity. Standing in the heart of their village, I was both familiar and foreign, a fascinating paradox for the locals.
Image: Landing in Merdey
Image: My ride leaving me behind in Merdey
The universal language of kindness and respect
My time in Merdey underscored the importance of human connection. Despite the language barrier, I felt a deep sense of belonging, a testament to the universal language of kindness and respect. The experience was a profound reminder that travel is not just about seeing new places, but about connecting with people and cultures on a deeper level.
Although travelling to Manokwari, Anggi, and Merdey was short, it was more than just a trip; it was a transformative experience. The opportunity to witness a world largely untouched by modern life and to connect with the warm and welcoming Papuan people was a privilege I will cherish forever. For the mature solo traveller seeking authentic and meaningful experiences, West Papua offers a journey of a lifetime. It is a place where time slows down, and the soul finds solace in the beauty of nature and the warmth of human connection. It is away from the busyness of Bali and some of the other islands. Yes, I was picked up after 40 minutes with the locals.
My final thoughts on Manokwari: The food was delicious, the people were very respectful, and the respect shown by mature individuals is truly remarkable. My trip there was very short, and I felt at home. I would love to go back. West Papua, the easternmost province of Indonesia, is a land of dramatic landscapes, ancient cultures, and unparalleled biodiversity. It is far, but for the adventurous traveller, it’s a dream destination
My next destination is as authentic as Manokwari. Wamena is in the heart of the Baliem Valley.
